You could set the contrast manually by sliding to left or right, you’re making the image of low or high contrast respectively. Think of it as the HDR option you use when editing your selfies or landscapes. This is useful for compositions which includes objects or person aside from the Milky Way. AmbienceĪdjusting this tool to right will lighten up the background and darken the foreground. This tool would increase or decrease the overall brightness of the image. This tool will make color more vibrant when slide to the right and dull on the left. In Milky Way post-processing, I’d like to keep all three natural colors be present – not too cold and not to warm – meaning there is a hint of blue but still a touch of yellow at the galactic core to keep the details and depth. Note that sliding this parameter to left means you’re making the overall temperature of your image to cool (more of blue hue) and going right means you’re increasing the warmth of the image (more on yellow tint). This is similar to Temperature in Lightroom CC. This will let you darken or light the shadows in the image only. To still keep the black and dark areas as it is, adjust this tool. This option will let you darken or lighten the highlights in the image. I set my highlight at max +100, but it still depends on the overall appearance of the image whether to go a little lower or not. To tune the image means you will further enhance the tonality, or distribution of light, and overall appearance of any image. If you are already satisfied with the overall appearance of your Milky Way shot considering the highlight and shadow, you may skip step 2 and 3. The more pronounced the S-shaped, the higher the contrast and the more the image would pop-out. I also add a third anchor in the middle for the midtones. I always start with adjusting this tool as this is essential for setting up the tones and saturation of the overall image.įor the Milky Way, I would always opt to use the classical S-shaped curve which boost the color contrast and color saturation. This 4 tools are what I primarily adjust. OR, you could try using online converter tools available but I have not tried any of it.Alternatively, click Share > Open in Lightroom (install Lr first from Google Play Store) > Export Click Edit, adjust any tool minimally to be save as JPEG.
![snapseed for cameras snapseed for cameras](https://www.reliancedigital.in/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Cover_Mobile_photography.jpg)
SNAPSEED FOR CAMERAS ANDROID
CAN post-process all RAW file types on iOs and DNG RAW file in Android 4.0 and higher.įor those who can’t open RAW file (except DNG) on their Android device, here’s what I did:
SNAPSEED FOR CAMERAS FREE
Nonetheless, Snapseed could perform similarly, and it is my go-to photo editing tool which is free and highly capable.īefore anything else, I would like you to know that Snapseed, as of the writing, can’t post-process RAW file so you have to convert it to JPEG or PNG. If you still prefer Lr and money is not a problem for you, then go ahead and purchase the licensed version. Adobe Lightroom CC (Mobile version) is the ideal option because it has the power to post-processed RAW file. Any other image editing platform on mobile could be use as long as you can manipulate the following: Curves, Highlights, Shadow, White balance, etc. Good thing you could easily do it while on-the-go through your mobile phone.įor this tutorial, I’ll be using Snapseed. Post-processing is MandatoryĪs I’ve mention in Milky Way, not the Easy way, you still have to do post-processing. I wish I could try Sony a7R II (I’m a big Sony fan) as it is a full-frame camera.
![snapseed for cameras snapseed for cameras](https://img-cdn.tnwcdn.com/image?fit=1280%2C720&url=https%3A%2F%2Fcdn0.tnwcdn.com%2Fwp-content%2Fblogs.dir%2F1%2Ffiles%2F2013%2F09%2F152887732.jpg)
A high-end camera which could withstand the requirement for astrophotography is really worth your bucks. It’s actually pretty good but not enough. I started in mobile photography with my Milky Way photos using LG G4 way back 2016. This will allow more light to be captured because shooting Milky Way, basically, is also a kind of a long exposure photography. You just need a camera which has a fast lens, wide aperture, and bigger sensor. Note that I use an advanced compact camera – it’s not a mirrorless with interchangeable lenses – the thing is, you could even shoot Milky Way using a mobile phone nowadays.
SNAPSEED FOR CAMERAS MANUAL
I use Sony RX100M3 and my settings are: f2.8 | ISO1600 | 20secs | Manual focus: Infinite ♾ Check the moon phase! Best to shoot at New Moon.Ĥ.
![snapseed for cameras snapseed for cameras](https://mindsoulstory.files.wordpress.com/2019/06/reverse-mobile-dslr-shot-crop.jpg)
Set the white balance at 3600K (don’t worry, you can post process this one if you got it wrong).ģ. You might’ve been shooting on an area with increase light pollution.Ģ. It might looked hazy or too dark, the white balance might have gone too cold/warm, or it look washed out.ġ. BUT it doesn’t look as sharp and as bright as you expect it to be. After you went out there in the dark, stayed for hours, and endured the cold you were finally been able to capture your very first Milky Way photo.